We’re back! Okay, I’ve taken off a bit of time from blogging. These past few weeks have been non-stop with travel — first in Japan for 2 weeks then Detroit for our friends’ wedding. I’m not even sure what time zone I’m in yet! There will be plenty of stories on Japan – but first Detroit.
Good o’l Detroit. I have to admit, I was a little dubious about spending a long weekend here. I’ve seen the 8 Mile with Eminem and the documentary Detropia (about the ultimate collapse of Detroit because of the auto industry). Both paint a pretty bleak scene. But I was surprised at how much fun we had. As we drove in, the place was pretty much what we imagined…A feeling of post-apocalypse collapse with crumbling mansions and roads.
Feeling like the world ended. Visiting Corktown, the oldest neighborhood in Michigan, where there is a major restoration movement… Clearly, a work in progress
Where’s the road?!
But things are on the upswing. While the city has a long way to go, there is a massive historic restoration effort happening. Artists are moving downtown and tech companies are setting up shop because of all the nearby universities to draw from and the low cost of living. In fact, I dropped by a real estate office to check things out. And I discovered that I could actually buy a full-blown cathedral with a bowling alley (!!) in the basement for just $300,000. Maybe now is the time to invest?
Inside the Guardian Building in downtown Detroit – recently restored and now houses a cafe and a Bank of America (weird combo, I know). But an incredible must-stop.
The Belt, a street-art-lined alley beside the Z parking garage in downtown Detroit. Previously a seedy dark alley and now full of bars and restaurants
Below are my 5 top things to see in Detroit — whether you’re coming for a wedding or looking for a different weekend getaway.
5. Detroit Institute of Arts
Known by the locals as just the DIA, this museum would be impressive even if it wasn’t in Detroit. The museum opened in 1927 during the post-World War I auto industry boom that made Detroit one of the world’s wealthiest cities and culture hubs. There are over 100 galleries so unless you’re a major art aficionado, be sure to have a game plan (checking out the works by Degas, Cézanne is a good start). This was also the location of our friends’ wedding ceremony inside the not-to-be-missed room featuring Diego Rivera’s mural Detroit Industry.
The impressive mural by Diego Rivera titled Detroit Industry.
After all that art, a relaxing place in the museum is Kresge Court with an inner courtyard and cafe.
Kresge Court
4. Local Food Scene/Cocktail Bars
There are so many good food stops – but I’ll just limit the recommendations to the most unique. The trick with Detroit is that you need to seek them out. The city isn’t lined with sidewalk cafes or obvious signage for that matter. We particularly loved Lafayette Coney Island (for some not so healthy chili dogs), Astoria’s Pastry Shop (in Greektown, open late and NOT SO HEALTHY Baklava… notice a trend?) and Wright & Co. (for old time cocktails on the 2nd floor of an office building and NOT obvious at all).
Great selection of cocktails at Wright and Company – definitely on the pricier side even by LA standards
Loved the vibe of Supino’s Pizza, which had a line the entire time we were there
3. Eastern Market
Flower stalls inside one of the sheds at Eastern Market
I love markets and as soon as I read about Eastern Market I knew this was a must visit. And it did not disappoint. In fact, it blew away all expectations. If you’re staying downtown you’ll either need a car or take a taxi. The best time to visit is on Saturday morning (but they also have a smaller Tuesday market I’m told). It’s one of the only places in Detroit where you’ll see people from all walks of life coming together in mass. There are outdoor art stalls, food trucks and massive bunkers (called sheds) with vendors giving out samples of coffee, cookies, fruit, beef jerky, pasta. Come hungry because you’ll get your free breakfast.
It didn’t take Kevin long to spot the free cheese samples – at a nearby cheese shop at Eastern Market
2. ‘See the D’ Walking Tour
Kevin chats away with our local guide Nancy
We had an afternoon to kill before the wedding so I decided to do some research into an activity that would take a few hours. That’s when I came across the 3-hour ‘See the D Walking/People Mover Tour’ by City Tour Detroit ($20 per person). We can’t recommend this enough — with such personal touches as bags of locally-produced Better Made potato chips (Detroiters eat 7 lbs of potato chips on average in a year — more than anywhere else!) and bags of Kars Nuts (another local product). You’ll get a good amount of walking in — and get to hear a local perspective on all the changes. Some of the highlights included a walk through Greektown, the revitalized riverfront, the art deco marvels of downtown and of course our chili dog taste off where we compared the Lafayette Coney Dog to its next door rival American Coney Dog (Lafayette was the clear winner). Owner Karin Risko offers other tours as well, including the Notorious 313 about the city’s sinister past. If only we had more time to do another!
The view from Detroit to Canada. The city played a vital role as part of the Underground Railway for slaves to escape into Canada
1. Motown Museum
Worth the visit to Detroit alone – the Motown Museum
Last but not least, Detroit gave us what we’ve all come to know as that “Motown sound.” Just on the outskirts of downtown (again, you’ll need a car or cab it) is the Motown Museum, where Berry Gordy, Jr. built out his music empire that produced such artists as Diana Ross, Stevie Wonder, the Jackson 5 and the Supremes just to name a few. You’ll need to join one of their regularly scheduled 1-hour tours to visit (meaning, if you’re going on the weekend, it’s wise to book the tour a day or 2 in advance).
The tiny Motown Museum gift shop
Berry Gordy once worked on the assembly line at Detroit’s Lincoln-Mercury auto plant. It was this tedious job where he came up with the brilliant idea of “Motown” and creating artists by putting them through a process much like the assembly line — taking an unknown person, putting them through the line where they come out the other end a star. It was a process that included training in singing, dancing, speaking and even etiquette.
You’ll get a chance to see the place as it existed back in the early 1960’s — right down to the original office punch cards to clock out at the end of the day. It’s a time capsule – with music pumping throughout the tour. By the end, we were literally dancing in the streets!
Did you guys go to MN or am I dreaming you did? I thought I remember you venturing into the Mall of America. Not sure you heard but Alex is getting married to Claire around the Sept 9 weekend.
Uncle Bill