Nothing prepared me for the wild and frenetic streets of Varanasi. A friend in Los Angeles told me that Varanasi was the most peaceful and spiritual place he’s ever been. Guess everyone has their own definition of peaceful!
Herds of cows, processions of families carrying bodies and a chorus of car horns. It’s like New York City in hyperdrive! What draws millions of pilgrims to Varanasi is spirituality — it’s the holiest of the seven sacred cities in Hinduism. Families rich and poor flock to Varanasi to burn the bodies of their loved ones. For Hindus, cremation is a rite of passage and the ghats of Varanasi are considered one of the holiest place to do it.
India is intense – but Varanasi was at another level. Hot temperates combined with steaming humidity (hey, I’m from LA!) makes it even more, ahhh, painful! But don’t fear. You can escape from the madness. Here are five places to take a break ( and trust me, you’re going to need one!).
Holy Cow – Tuck into a back alley
You’ll soon learn that bulls rule the land. There is no such thing as right of way here. Unless you’re a bull. Just watch where you step! Peek around any corner and you’ll find bulls just chillin’ or pushing their way through the taxi-filled streets. There are bulls everywhere but they really seem to enjoy themselves. Verge off any of the main paths in the old part of the city and you’ll certainly find a herd. The bulls are highly respected by locals because of their connection with the Lord Shiva. There is even a shop in downtown Varanasi (called Nandi Baba) where a bull hangs out inside during the day.
Ganpati Guest House – Air Conditioning
Vibrant colors, scenic spots. Everywhere you look is a photo opportunity. This photo was taken right outside Ganpati Guest House. Located right along the Ganges, Ganpati is in the heart of the action. But more importantly, the place has strong AC! Okay, it stopped working a few times. But hey, this is India. We stayed in a junior suite ($80 a night). Well worth the cost. My partner Kevin basically holed up inside all day while I braved the streets. It has a real backpacker feel to it. One of my concerns was the curfew (doors lock at 10 PM). But there isn’t really much to do late at night. So having a comfy place to go is all that matters. This place fit what we were looking for.
Blue Lassi Shop and Brown Bread Bakery:
Right along the river, the Blue Lassi Shop is an institution in Varanasi. While waiting for my lassi topped with honey and pistachio nuts, I counted 5 processions of families heading to burn the bodies of a loved one. Literally a hole in the wall, this place churns out lassi’s that are chilled and refreshing. I had several and didn’t get sick once on the trip. This is a must stop. Hours 9:00AM – 10:30 PM. Want something heartier? Go straight to Brown Bread Bakery just about 5 minutes walking and chill on the rooftop lounge or inside where they TRY to pump in AC. At night, the lights dim and a live band plays. They also give out baskets of free bread – bonus!
Early Morning Cruise on the Ghat
A 4:30 AM wake up call? To see people waking up…. Are you kidding me? But seriously, you gotta do it. I took Groovy Tours. While not particularly organized, the company did a great job explaining the rituals and answering all our questions. Oh, and we love to ask questions! The sun was not even over the horizon and families were already swimming, doing laundry and just lounging in the Ganges. Our guide explained that while the river is polluted, as long as you THINK it’s clean, everything will be okay. We decided not to test our luck and stayed inside the boat. At 5 AM, it’s one of the most peaceful places I’ve ever been. Truly a highlight of our time in India.
Tour the Muslim Quarter
After checking out the mostly Hindu section of town, we headed further south and soon all the bulls disappeared. And goats roamed the streets. In the Muslim section of Varanasi, few tourists roamed. It was also very peaceful and the horns and crowds were thin. Muslims make up roughly a third of the population of Varanasi. Muslims can be seen around Munshi Ghat and the neighborhood nearby as well as in other distinct Muslim neighborhoods not far from the Hindu core of the city. You’ll be wandering from the city center so bring plenty of sunscreen and water.
Taxi Please!
Pretty much, the best mode of transport in Varanasi is Taxi. AC was our best friend here. Cabs should be meter (insist this! Many will try strong-arm you to pay per person or a flat rate). This is the way to get around. Skip the pedicab – the heat is enough to kill your driver and you could probably walk faster. Varanasi is easy to get lost and cabs will be your best friend.
I really enjoyed this post. I’m traveling to India last this year and am going to print this out.
Thanks for the comment. Have a great trip to India!